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The Project Gutenberg EBook of Explorations in Australia, by John Forrest
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Title: Explorations in Australia
Author: John Forrest
Release Date: August 26, 2004 [EBook #9958]
Language: English
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*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA ***
Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat
EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA:
1.
EXPLORATIONS IN SEARCH OF DR. LEICHARDT
AND PARTY.
2.
FROM PERTH TO ADELAIDE, AROUND THE GREAT
AUSTRALIAN BIGHT.
3.
FROM CHAMPION BAY, ACROSS THE DESERT TO
THE TELEGRAPH AND TO ADELAIDE.
WITH AN APPENDIX ON THE CONDITION OF
WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
BY
JOHN FORREST, F.R.G.S.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY G.F. ANGAS.
London:
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, LOW, & SEARLE,
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
1875.
LONDON:
GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
ST JOHN'S SQUARE.
TO HIS
EXCELLENCY
FREDERICK ALOYSIUS WELD, ESQ., C.M.G.,
GOVERNOR OF TASMANIA,
LATE GOVERNOR AND COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF of
WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
MY
DEAR GOVERNOR WELD,
It
was during your administration of the
Government of Western Australia, and
chiefly owing to your zeal and support,
that most of the work of exploration
described in this volume was undertaken
and carried out. Your encouragement
revived the love of exploration which
had almost died out in our colony before
you arrived.
With
gratitude and pleasure I ask you to
accept the dedication of this volume as
an expression of my appreciation of your
kindness and support.
Yours very faithfully,
JOHN
FORREST.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER 1.
Previous Expeditions into the Interior.
Attempts to Discover a Route between
South and Western Australia.
Eyre's Disastrous Journey.
Leichardt, the Lost Explorer.
The Latest Explorations.
CHAPTER 2.
FIRST EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF LEICHARDT.
Statements made by the Natives.
An Expedition Prepared.
Leader Appointed.
Official Instructions.
The Journal.
CHAPTER 3.
SECOND EXPEDITION. FROM PERTH TO
ADELAIDE, ROUND THE GREAT BIGHT.
A New
Exploration suggested.
Proposal to reach Adelaide by way of the
South Coast.
The experience derived from Eyre's
Expedition.
Survey of Port Eucla.
Official Instructions.
The Start.
Dempster's Station near Esperance Bay.
The Schooner at Port Eucla.
Journal of the Expedition.
CHAPTER 4.
RECEPTION AT ADELAIDE AND RETURN TO
PERTH.
Departure from Gawler and Arrival at
Adelaide.
Appearance of the Party.
Public Entrance.
Complimentary Banquet.
Grant by the Government of Western
Australia.
CHAPTER 5.
THIRD EXPEDITION. FROM THE WEST COAST TO
THE TELEGRAPH LINE.
Proposal to undertake a New Expedition.
Endeavour to Explore the Watershed of
the Murchison.
Expeditions by South Australian
Explorers.
My Journal.
Fight with the Natives.
Finding traces of Mr. Gosse's Party.
The Telegraph Line reached.
Arrival at Perth Station.
CHAPTER 6.
PUBLIC RECEPTIONS AT ADELAIDE AND PERTH.
Procession and Banquet at Adelaide.
Arrival in Western Australia.
Banquet and Ball at Perth.
Results of Exploration.
APPENDIX.
Description of Plants, etc.
Report on Geological Specimens.
Note by Editor.
Governor Weld's Report (1874) on Western
Australia.
Table of Imports and Exports.
Ditto of Revenue and Expenditure.
Public Debt.
Population.
List of Governors.
MAPS.
1. General Map of Australia, showing the
Three Journeys.
2. From Perth to Longitude 123 degrees
in Search of Leichardt.
3. From Perth to Adelaide, around the
Great Australian Bight.
4. From Champion Bay to Adelaide.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
General Map of Australia, showing the
Three Journeys.
[Click here for higher resolution image]
EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA.
CHAPTER 1.
Previous Expeditions into the Interior.
Attempts to discover a Route between
South and Western Australia.
Eyre's Disastrous Journey.
Leichardt, the Lost Explorer.
The Latest Explorations.
As
the history of the principal expeditions
into the interior of Australia has been
narrated by several able writers, I do
not propose to repeat what has already
been so well told. But, to make the
narrative of my own journeys more
intelligible, and to explain the motives
for making them, it is necessary that I
should briefly sketch the expeditions
undertaken for the purpose of
ascertaining the nature of the vast
regions intervening between Western and
the other Australian colonies, and
determining the possibility of opening
up direct overland communication.
With
energetic, if at times uncertain, steps
the adventurous colonists have advanced
from the settlements on the eastern and
southern coasts of the vast island into
the interior. Expeditions, led by
intrepid explorers, have forced their
way against all but insurmountable
difficulties into the hitherto unknown
regions which lie to the north and west
of the eastern colonies. Settlements
have been established on the shores of
the Gulf of Carpentaria. Burke and a
small party crossed Australia from south
to north, enduring innumerable
hardships, Burke, with two of his
associates, perishing on the return
journey. About the same time Stuart
crossed farther to the west, reaching
the very centre of Australia, and
telegraphic wires now almost exactly
follow his line of route, affording
communication, by way of Port Darwin,
between Adelaide and the great
telegraphic systems of the world.
ATTEMPTS TO CROSS THE DESERT.
The
telegraph line divides Australia into
two portions, nearly equal in
dimensions, but very different in
character. To the east are the busy and
rapidly advancing settlements, fertile
plains, extensive ranges of grassy
downs, broad rivers, abundant
vegetation; to the west a great lone
land, a wilderness interspersed with
salt marshes and lakes, barren hills,
and spinifex deserts. It is the Sahara
of the south, but a Sahara with few
oases of fertility, beyond which is the
thin fringe of scattered settlements of
the colony of Western Australia. To
cross this desert, to discover routes
connecting the western territory with
South Australia and the line marked by
the telegraph, has been the ambition of
later explorers. Mr. Gregory attempted,
from the north, to ascend the Victoria
River, but only reached the upper edge
of the great desert. Dr. Leichardt, who
had previously travelled from Moreton
Bay, on the eastern coast, to Port
Essington on the northern, attempted to
cross from the eastern to the western
shores, and has not since been heard of.
Mr. Eyre made a journey, memorable for
the misfortunes which attended it, and
the sufferings he endured, from Adelaide
round the head of the great bay, or
Bight of Southern Australia, to Perth,
the capital of Western Australia; and
much more recently Colonel Egerton
Warburton succeeded in crossing from the
telegraphic line to the western coast
across the northern part of the great
wilderness, nearly touching the farthest
point reached by Mr. Gregory.
EYRE'S JOURNEY.
It
was in the year 1840, only four years
after the foundation of South Australia,
that the first great attempt to discover
a route from Adelaide to the settlements
in Western Australia was made. There
then resided in South Australia a man of
great energy and restless activity,
Edward John Eyre, whose name was
afterwards known throughout the world in
connexion with the Jamaica outbreak of
1865, and the measures which, as
Governor, he adopted for repressing it.
It was anticipated that a profitable
trade between the colonies might be
carried on if sheep and other live-stock
could be transferred from one to the
other in a mode less expensive than was
afforded by the sea route between
Adelaide and the Swan River. Eyre did
not believe in the possibility of
establishing a practicable route, but
urged, through the press, the
desirability of exploring the vast
regions to the north, which he
anticipated would afford a good and
profitable field for adventurous
enterprise. He offered to lead an
expedition which should explore the
country around the great salt lake lying
to the north-west of the settled portion
of the colony, and to which the name of
Lake Torrens had been given. Very little
was known of this lake, and absolutely
nothing of the country beyond. The
general supposition, in which Eyre
shared, was that there existed a large
space of barren land, most probably the
bed of a sea which had at one time
divided the continent into several
islands; but it was hoped that no
insuperable difficulties in the way of
crossing it would present themselves,
and beyond might be a fertile and
valuable district, offering an almost
unbounded field for settlement, and with
which permanent communications might
without great difficulty be established.
Some geographers were of opinion that an
inland sea might be in existence, and,
if so, of course water communication
with the northern half of Australia
could be effected.
Mr.
Eyre's proposition found ready
acceptance with the colonists, The
Government granted 100 pounds--a small
sum indeed--but the colony was then
young, and far from being in flourishing
circumstances. Friends lent their
assistance, enthusiasm was aroused, and
in little more than three weeks from the
time when Eyre proposed the expedition,
he started on his journey. Five
Europeans accompanied him, and two
natives, black boys, were attached to
the party, which was provided with
thirteen horses, forty sheep, and
provisions for three months. Lake
Torrens was reached, and then the
difficulties of the expedition began.
Although dignified with the name of
lake, it proved to be an enormous swamp,
without surface water, and the mud
coated with a thin layer of salt. The
party struggled to effect a passage, and
penetrated into the slime for six miles,
until they were in imminent danger of
sinking. The lake, or rather salt swamp,
presented a barrier which Eyre
considered it impossible to overcome.
The party turned in a westerly
direction, and reached the sea at Port
Lincoln. Here a little open boat was
obtained, and Mr. Scott, Eyre's
courageous companion, undertook to
attempt to reach Adelaide and obtain
further supplies. This he successfully
accomplished, returning in the Water
Witch with stores and provisions, two
more men, and some kangaroo dogs. Thus
reinforced, the party reached Fowler's
Bay in the great Bight of South
Australia. The map shows that a journey
of more than 200 miles must have been
made before the point was reached.
Thence they attempted to make their way
round the head of the Bight, but were
twice baffled by want of water. Nothing
daunted, Eyre made a third attempt, and
succeeded in penetrating fifty miles
beyond the head of the Bight. But the
result was achieved only at a cost which
the little party could ill sustain. Four
of the best horses perished, which
deprived Eyre of the means of carrying
provisions, and he had to decide between
abandoning the expedition altogether or
still further reducing the number of his
companions. Mr. Scott and three men
returned to Adelaide, leaving behind a
man named Baxter, who had long been in
Eyre's employ as an overseer or
factotum; the two natives who had first
started with him, and a boy, Wylie, who
had before been in Eyre's service, and
who had been brought back in the cutter.
Six
months after Eyre had started from
Adelaide, he was left with only four
companions to continue the journey. He
had acquired considerable experience of
the privations to be encountered, but
refused to comply with the wishes of
Colonel Gawler, the Governor, to abandon
the expedition as hopeless, and return
to Adelaide. Indeed, with characteristic
inflexibility--almost approaching to
obstinacy--he resolved to attempt the
western route along the shore of the
Great Bight--a journey which, only a few
months before, he had himself described
as impracticable.
The
cutter which had been stationed at
Fowler Bay, to afford assistance if
required, departed on the 31st of
January, 1841, and Eyre and his small
party were left to their fate. He had
been defeated in the attempt to push
forward in a northward direction, and he
resolved not to return without having
accomplished something which would
justify the confidence of the public in
his energy and courageous spirit of
adventure. If he could not reach the
north, he would attempt the western
route, whatever might be the result of
his enterprise. After resting to recruit
the strength of his party, Eyre
resolutely set out, on the 25th of
February, on what proved to be a journey
attended by almost unexampled demands
upon human endurance.
Nine
horses, one pony, six sheep, and a
provision of flour, tea, and sugar for
nine weeks, formed the slender stores of
the little party, which resolutely set
forward to track an unknown path to the
west. Accompanied by one of the blacks,
Eyre went on in advance to find water.
For five days, during which time he
travelled about 140 miles, no water was
obtained, and the distress endured by
men and animals was extreme. It is not
necessary to dwell on every incident of
this terrible journey. Eyre's
descriptions, animated by remembrances
of past sufferings, possess a graphic
vigour which cannot be successfully
emulated. Sometimes it was found
necessary to divide the party, so
wretched was the country, and so
difficult was it to obtain sufficient
water in even the most limited supply
for man and beast. Once Eyre was alone
for six days, with only three quarts of
water, some of which evaporated, and
more was spilt. But his indomitable
determination to accomplish the journey
on which he had resolved never failed.
He knew that at least 600 miles of
desert country lay between him and the
nearest settlement of Western Australia;
but even that prospect, the certain
privations, the probable miserable
death, did not daunt him in the journey.
The horses broke down from thirst and
fatigue; the pony died; the survivors
crawled languidly about, "like dogs,
looking to their masters only for aid."
After a few days, during which no water
had been obtainable, a dew fell, and
Eyre collected a little moisture with a
sponge, the black boys with pieces of
rag. To their inexpressible joy, some
sand-hills were reached, and, after
digging, a supply of water was obtained
for their refreshment, and for six days
the party rested by the spot to recruit
their strength. The overseer and one of
the natives then went back forty-seven
miles to recover the little store of
provisions they had been compelled to
abandon. Two out of the three horses he
took with him broke down, and with great
difficulty he succeeded in rejoining
Eyre. At this time the party were 650
miles from their destination, with only
three weeks' provisions, estimated on
the most reduced scale. Baxter, the
overseer, wished to attempt to return;
but, Eyre being resolute, the overseer
loyally determined to stay with him to
the last. One horse was killed for food;
dysentery broke out; the natives
deserted them, but came back starving
and penitent, and were permitted to
remain with the white men. Then came the
tragedy which makes this narrative so
conspicuously terrible, even in the
annals of Australian exploration. Two of
the black men shot the overseer, Baxter,
as he slept, and then ran away,
perishing, it is supposed, miserably in
the desert. Eyre, when some distance
from the place where poor Baxter rested,
looking after the horses, heard the
report of the gun and hurried back,
arriving just in time to receive the
pathetic look of farewell from the
murdered man, who had served him so long
and so faithfully.
Wylie, the black boy, who had been with
Eyre in Adelaide, now alone remained,
and it is scarcely possible to imagine a
more appalling situation than that in
which Eyre then found himself. The
murderers had carried away nearly the
whole of the scanty stock of provisions,
leaving only forty pounds of flour, a
little tea and sugar, and four gallons
of water. They had also taken the two
available guns, and nearly all the
ammunition. The body of Baxter was
wrapped in a blanket--they could not
even dig a grave in the barren rock.
Left with his sole companion, Eyre sadly
resumed the march, their steps tracked
by the two blacks, who probably
meditated further murders; but, with
only cowardly instincts, they dared not
approach the intrepid man, who at length
outstripped them, and they were never
heard of more. Still no water was found
for 150 miles; then a slight supply, and
the two men struggled on, daily becoming
weaker, living on horse-flesh, an
occasional kangaroo, and the few fish
that were to be caught--for it must be
remembered that at no time were they far
from the coast.
On
the 2nd of June, nearly four months
after they had bidden good-bye to the
cutter at Fowler's Bay, they stood on
the cliffs, looking out over the ocean,
when they saw in the distance two
objects which were soon recognized as
boats, and shortly afterwards, to their
unbounded joy, they discerned the masts
of a vessel on the farther side of a
small rocky island. Animated by a new
life, Eyre pushed on until he reached a
point whence he succeeded in hailing the
ship, and a boat was sent off. The
vessel proved to be a French whaler, the
Mississippi, commanded by an Englishman,
Captain Rossiter. The worn-out
travellers stayed on board for a
fortnight, experiencing the utmost
kindness, and with recruited strength
and food and clothing, they bade a
grateful farewell to the captain and
crew, and resumed their journey.
For
twenty-three days more Eyre and his
attendant Wylie pursued their way. Rain
fell heavily, and the cold was intense;
but at length, on the 27th of July, they
reached Albany, in Western Australia,
and the journey was accomplished.
For
more than twelve months Eyre had been
engaged forcing his way from Adelaide to
the Western colony; and the incidents of
the journey have been dwelt upon because
afterwards I passed over the same
ground, though in the opposite
direction, and the records of Eyre's
expedition were of the greatest service
to me, by at least enabling me to guard
against a repetition of the terrible
sufferings he endured.
EXPLORATIONS BY LEICHARDT.
It
is further necessary to refer to another
of the journeys of exploration which
preceded my own--that of the unfortunate
Leichardt. He endeavoured to cross the
continent from east to west, starting
from Moreton Bay, Queensland, hoping to
reach the Western Australian
settlements. In 1844 Leichardt had
succeeded in crossing the north-western
portion of the continent from Moreton
Bay to Port Essington, and he conceived
the gigantic project of reaching Western
Australia. Towards the end of 1847,
accompanied by eight men, with
provisions estimated at two years'
supply, he started on his journey. He
took with him an enormous number of
animals--180 sheep, 270 goats, 40
bullocks, 15 horses, and 13 mules. They
must have greatly encumbered his march,
and the difficulty of obtaining food
necessarily much impeded his movements.
His original intention was first to
steer north, following for some distance
his previous track, and then, as
opportunity offered, to strike westward
and make clear across the continent.
After disastrous wanderings for seven
months, in the course of which they lost
the whole of their cattle and sheep, the
party returned.
Disappointed, but not discouraged,
Leichardt resolved on another attempt to
achieve the task he had set himself.
With great difficulty he obtained some
funds; organized a small but
ill-provided party, and again started
for the interior. The last ever heard of
him was a letter, dated the 3rd of
April, 1848. He was then in the Fitzroy
Downs; he wrote in good spirits,
hopefully as to his prospects: "Seeing
how much I have been favoured in my
present progress, I am full of hopes
that our Almighty Protector will allow
me to bring my darling scheme to a
successful termination."
THE
FATE OF LEICHARDT.
From
that day the fate of Leichardt and his
companions has been involved in mystery.
He was then on the Cogoon River, in
Eastern Australia, at least 1500 miles
from the nearest station on the western
side of the continent. His last letter
gives no clue to the track he intended
to pursue. If a westerly course had been
struck he would have nearly traversed
the route which subsequently Warburton
travelled; but no trace of him has ever
been discovered. Several expeditions
were undertaken to ascertain his fate;
at various times expectations were
aroused by finding trees marked L; but
Leichardt himself, on previous journeys,
had met with trees so marked, by whom is
unknown. Natives found in the remote
interior were questioned; they told
vague stories of the murder of white
men, but all investigations resulted in
the conclusion that the statements were
as untrustworthy as those generally made
to explorers who question uninformed,
ignorant natives. The white man's
experience is usually that a native only
partially comprehends the question; he
does not understand what is wanted, but
is anxious to please, as he expects
something to eat, and he says what he
thinks is most likely to be
satisfactory.
Leichardt was certainly ill-provided for
an expedition of the magnitude he
contemplated, and it appears to be at
the least as probable that he succumbed
to the hardships he encountered, or was
swept away by a flood, as that he was
murdered by the blacks. Twenty-seven
years have elapsed since he disappeared
in the interior; yet the mystery
attending his fate has not ceased to
excite a desire to know the fate of so
daring an explorer, and ascertain
something definite respecting his
course--a desire which was one of the
principal motives that prompted my first
expedition into the unknown interior
dividing the west from the east.
In
1872, Mr. Giles headed an exploring
party from Melbourne, which succeeded in
making known a vast district hitherto
unexplored; but his progress was
stopped, when he had reached longitude
129 degrees 40 minutes, by a large salt
lake, the limits of which could not be
ascertained. In the following year Mr.
Gosse, at the head of a party equipped
by the South Australian Government,
started from nearly the same point of
the telegraph line, and at the same
period as the Warburton expedition, but
was compelled to return after eight
months' absence, having reached
longitude 126 degrees 59 minutes. Gosse
found the country generally poor and
destitute of water. He was perhaps
unfortunate in experiencing an unusually
dry season; but his deliberate
conclusion was, "I do not think a
practicable route will ever be found
between the lower part of Western
Australia and the telegraph line."
VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS.
At
the instance of Baron Von Mueller, and
assisted by a small subscription from
the South Australian Government, Mr.
Giles made a second attempt to penetrate
westward. He reached the 125th degree of
east longitude, and discovered and
traversed four distinct mountain ranges,
on one of which Mr. Gosse shortly
afterwards found his tracks. One of his
companions, Mr. Gibson, lost his way and
perished in the desert, and therefore
Mr. Giles turned his face eastwards,
and, after an absence of twelve months,
reached Adelaide. He encountered many
perils, having been nine times attacked
by the natives, probably in the attempt
to obtain water; and on one occasion was
severely wounded and nearly captured.
On
the 20th March, 1874, Mr. Ross, with his
son and another European, three Arabs,
fourteen horses, and sixteen camels,
started from the telegraph line, near
the Peake station in South Australia. He
was compelled to return through want of
water, although, soon after starting, he
had greatly reduced the number of his
party by sending back three of his
companions, two of the horses, and
twelve of the camels.
Such, in brief, have been the results of
the efforts made to cross Australia
between the telegraph line and the west
coast, and ascertain the probability of
establishing a practicable route. I have
referred to them to show how persistent
has been the desire to achieve the
exploit, and how little daunted by
repeated failures have been Australian
explorers. I now propose to relate my
own experiences--the results of three
journeys of exploration, conducted by
myself. The first was undertaken in the
hope of discovering some traces of
Leichardt; the second nearly retraced
the route of Eyre; the third was across
the desert from Western Australia to the
telegraph line in South Australia. The
first journey did not result in
obtaining the information sought for;
the second and third journeys were
successfully accomplished.
CHAPTER 2.
FIRST EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF LEICHARDT.
Statements made by the Natives.
An Expedition prepared.
Leader appointed.
Official Instructions.
The Journal.
Early in 1869, Dr. Von Mueller, of the
Melbourne Botanic Gardens, a botanist of
high attainments, proposed to the
Government of Western Australia that an
expedition should be undertaken from the
colony for the purpose of ascertaining,
if possible, the fate of the lost
explorer, Leichardt. Reports had reached
Perth of natives met with in the eastern
districts, who had stated that, about
twenty years before (a date
corresponding with that of the last
authentic intelligence received from
Leichardt), a party of white men had
been murdered. This tale was repeated,
but perhaps would not have made much
impression if a gentleman, Mr. J.H.
Monger, when on a trip eastward in
search of sheep-runs, had not been told
by his native guide that he had been to
the very spot where the murder was
committed, and had seen the remains of
the white men. His story was very
circumstantial; he described the spot,
which, he said, was near a large lake,
so large that it looked like the sea,
and that the white men were attacked and
killed while making a damper--bread made
of flour mixed with water, and cooked on
hot ashes. So certain was he as to the
exact locality, that he offered to
conduct a party to the place.
This
appeared like a trustworthy confirmation
of the reports which had reached the
colony, and created a great impression,
so that the Government felt it a duty
incumbent on them to make an effort to
ascertain the truth of this statement,
and Dr. Von Mueller's offer to lead an
expedition was accepted.
I
was then, as now, an officer of the
Survey Department, and employed in a
distant part of the colony. I was
ordered to repair to headquarters, to
confer with the authorities on the
subject, and was offered the appointment
of second in command and navigator. This
was a proposition quite in accordance
with my tastes, for I had long felt a
deep interest in the subject of
Australian exploration, and ardently
desired to take my share in the work. I
at once arranged the equipment of the
expedition, but, while so engaged, the
mail from Melbourne brought a letter
from Dr. Von Mueller, to the effect that
his other engagements would not permit
him to take the lead as proposed, and I
was appointed to take his place in the
expedition.
OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
The
Honourable Captain Roe, R.N., the
Surveyor-General, who had himself been a
great explorer, undertook the
preparation of a set of Instructions for
my guidance; and they so accurately
describe the objects of the journey, and
the best modes of carrying them out,
that I transcribe the official letter:--
Survey Office, Perth,
13th April, 1869.
Sir,
His
Excellency the Governor having been
pleased to appoint you to lead an
expedition into the interior of Western
Australia for the purpose of searching
for the remains of certain white men
reported by the natives to have been
killed by the aborigines some years ago,
many miles beyond the limits of our
settled country, and it being deemed
probable that the white men referred to
formed part of an exploring party under
the command of Dr. Leichardt,
endeavouring to penetrate overland from
Victoria to this colony several years
ago, I have been directed to furnish the
following instructions for your guidance
on this interesting service, and for
enabling you to carry out the wishes of
the Government in connexion therewith.
2.
Your party will consist of six persons
in the whole, well armed, and made up of
Mr. George Monger as second in command,
Mr. Malcolm Hamersley as third in
command, a farrier blacksmith to be
hired at Newcastle, and two well-known
and reliable natives, Tommy Windich and
Jemmy, who have already acquired
considerable experience under former
explorers.
3.
An agreement to serve on the expedition
in the above capacities has been
prepared, and should be signed by each
European member of the party previous to
starting.
4. A
saddle-horse has been provided for each
member of the party, together with ----
pack-horses to transport such portions
of the outfit as cannot be carried by
the former. A three-horsed cart will
also accompany the expedition as far as
may be found practicable through the
unsettled country, and thereby relieve
the pack-horses as much as possible.
5.
All preparations for the journey being
now complete, it is desirable that you
should lose no time in starting, so as
to arrive at the commencement of the
unexplored country by the end of the
present month, or beginning of the
expected winter rains. It has been,
however, already ascertained from native
information that a considerable quantity
of rain has recently fallen over the
regions to be explored, and that no
impediment may be anticipated from a
scarcity of water there.
6.
The route to be followed might
advantageously commence at Newcastle,
where some of your party and several of
your horses are to be picked up, and
thence proceed north-easterly to
Goomaling, and 100 miles further in the
same general direction, passing eastward
to Mounts Chunbaren and Kenneth of Mr.
Austin's, to the eastern farthest of
that explorer, in 119 degrees East and
28 3/4 degrees South. Thence the general
north-easterly route of the expedition
must be governed by the information
afforded by your native guides as to the
locality in which they have reported the
remains of white men are to be found.
7.
On arriving at that spot, the greatest
care is to be taken to bring away all
such remains as may be discovered by a
diligent search of the neighbourhood. By
friendly and judicious treatment of the
local natives, it is also probable that
several articles of European manufacture
which are said to be still in their
possession might be bartered from them,
and serve towards identifying their
former owners. The prospect of obtaining
from the natives, at this remote date,
anything like a journal, note-book, or
map, would indeed be small; but the
greatest interest would be attached to
the smallest scrap of written or printed
paper, however much defaced, if only
covered with legible characters. A more
promising mode by which the former
presence of European explorers on the
spot might be detected is the marks
which are generally made on the trees by
travellers to record the number or
reference to a halting-place, or the
initials of some of the party. Thus the
letter L has in several instances been
found by searching parties to have been
legibly cut on trees in the interior of
the eastern colonies, and in localities
supposed to have been visited by the
eminent explorer alluded to. It is
needless to point out that metal
articles, such as axes, tomahawks, gun
and pistol barrels, iron-work of
pack-saddles, and such like, would be
far more likely to have survived through
the lapse of years than articles of a
more perishable nature.
8.
After exhausting all conceivable means
of obtaining information on the spot,
and from the nature of surrounding
country, an attempt should be made to
follow back on the track of the
unfortunate deceased, which is said to
have been from the eastward and towards
the settled part of this colony. Here a
close and minute scrutiny of the trees
might prove of great value in clearing
up existing doubts, especially at and
about any water-holes and springs near
which explorers would be likely to
bivouac.
9.
After completing an exhaustive research
and inquiry into this interesting and
important part of your duties, the
remainder of the time that may be at
your disposal, with reference to your
remaining stock of provisions, should be
employed in exploring the surrounding
country, in tracing any considerable or
smaller stream it may be your good
fortune to discover, and generally in
rendering the service entrusted to your
guidance as extensively useful and
valuable to this colony as circumstances
may admit.
10.
Towards effecting this object, your
homeward journey should, if possible, be
over country not previously traversed by
the outward route, or by any former
explorers, and should be so regulated as
to expose your party to no unnecessary
risk on account of the falling short of
supplies.
11.
In your intercourse with the aborigines
of the interior, many of whom will have
no previous personal knowledge of the
white man, I need scarcely commend to
you a policy of kindness and forbearance
mixed with watchfulness and firmness, as
their future bearing towards our remote
colonists may be chiefly moulded by
early impressions.
12.
To render the expedition as extensively
useful as possible, I would urge you, in
the interests of science, to make and
preserve such specimens in natural
history as may come within the reach of
yourself and party, especially in the
departments of botany, geology, and
zoology, which may be greatly enriched
by productions of country not yet
traversed.
13.
Direct reference to minor objects, and
to matters of detail, is purposely
omitted, in full reliance on your
judgment and discretion, and on your
personal desire to render the expedition
as productive as possible of benefit to
the colony and to science in general.
14.
In this spirit I may add that the brief
instructions herein given for your
general guidance are by no means
intended to fetter your own judgment in
carrying out the main object of the
expedition in such other and different
manner as may appear to you likely to
lead to beneficial results. In the
belief that such results will be
achieved by the energy and perseverance
of yourself and of those who have so
nobly volunteered to join you in the
enterprise, and with confident wishes
for your success, in which H.E. largely
participates,
I
remain, Sir,
Your obedient Servant,
J.S.
ROE, Surveyor-General.
John
Forrest, Esquire, Leader of Exploring
Expedition to the North-East.
Mr.
George Monger (brother of the gentleman
who gave the information), who
accompanied me as second in command, had
previously been on an expedition to the
eastward, and Jemmy Mungaro was the
black who said he had seen the spot
where the remains of the white men were.
His persistence in the statement
encouraged me to hope that I might be
the first to announce positively the
fate of the lost explorer; but I had
then to learn how little dependence can
be placed on the testimony of Australian
aborigines.
On
the 15th of April, 1869, I began the
journey. I was well supplied with
instruments for making observations, so
as to ascertain our daily position. A
knowledge of at least the leading
principles of the art of navigation is
as necessary to the explorer as to the
mariner on the ocean. Our stock of
provisions consisted of 800 pounds of
flour, 270 pounds of pork, 135 pounds of
sugar, and 17 pounds of tea; and we each
took two suits of clothes.
The
party were all in good spirits. For
myself I was hopeful of success, and my
white companions shared my feelings. The
natives were, as they generally are,
except when food is scarce, or their
anger excited, on the best terms with
everybody and everything, and Jemmy
Mungaro, so far as could be judged from
his demeanour, might have been the most
veracious guide who ever led a party of
white men through difficulties and
dangers on an expedition of discovery.
Day
by day I noted down the incidents of the
journey, and that Journal I now submit
to the reader.
JOURNAL OF PROCEEDINGS OF AN EXPLORING
EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF THE REMAINS OF
THE LATE DR. LEICHARDT AND PARTY,
UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER OF THE GOVERNMENT OF
WESTERN AUSTRALIA, BY JOHN FORREST,
GOVERNMENT SURVEYOR.
Sir,
In
pursuance of instructions received from
you, the exploring party under my
command consisted of the following
persons, namely, Mr. George Monger, as
second in command; Mr. Malcolm
Hamersley, as third in command;
probation prisoner, David Morgan, as
shoeing smith, and two natives (Tommy
Windich and Jemmy Mungaro). The latter
native gave Mr. J.H. Monger the
information respecting the murder of
white men in the eastward. Reached
Newcastle on the 17th and left on
Monday, 19th, with a three-horse cart
and teamster and thirteen horses, making
a total of sixteen horses. Reached
Mombekine, which is about sixteen miles
East-North-East from Newcastle.
April 20th.
Continued journey to Goomalling, sixteen
miles, which we reached at 1 p.m., and
devoted the remainder of the afternoon
to weighing and packing rations, etc.,
for a final start.
21st.
Leaving Goomalling at 10.30 a.m., we
travelled in a northerly direction for
nine miles, and reached Walyamurra Lake;
thence about East-North-East for seven
miles, we encamped at a well on north
side of Kombekine Lake. The water was
very bad from opossums being drowned in
it, and there was hardly any feed.
22nd.
Hearing from a number of natives that
there was no water in the direction we
intended steering, namely, to Mount
Churchman, we decided on changing our
course and proceed there via Waddowring,
in latitude 31 degrees south and
longitude 118 degrees east. Steering
about South-South-East for eight miles,
through dense scrubby thickets, which we
had great difficulty in getting the cart
through, we struck the road from
Goomalling to Waddowring, which we
followed along about east for eight
miles, and camped at a well called
Naaning, with hardly any feed.
23rd.
Mr. George Roe (who had come from
Northam to bid us farewell) and my
teamster left us this morning to return
to Newcastle. Considerable delay having
occurred in collecting the horses, we
did not start till twelve o'clock, when
we steered East-North-East for eight
miles over scrubby sand-plains, and
camped at a well called Pingeperring,
with very little feed for our horses.
24th.
Started at 8.50 a.m. and steered about
east for seven miles over scrubby,
undulating sand-plains, thence North 50
degrees East magnetic for two miles,
thence North 160 degrees for one mile,
and thence about North 80 degrees East
magnetic for five miles over scrubby
sand-plains. We camped at a spring
called Dwartwollaking at 5 p.m.
Barometer 29.45; thermometer 71 degrees.
25th
(Sunday).
Did not travel to-day. Took observations
for time, and corrected our watches.
Found camp to be in south latitude 31
degrees 10 minutes by meridian altitude
of sun.
26th.
Travelled in about the direction of
North 73 degrees East magnetic for
twenty-eight miles. We reached
Yarraging, the farthest station to the
eastward, belonging to Messrs. Ward and
Adams, where we bivouacked for the
night.
27th.
Bought some rations from Ward and Co.,
making our supply equal to last three
months on the daily allowance of a pound
and a half of flour, half a pound of
pork, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and
half an ounce of tea per man. Being
unable to take the cart any further, and
wishing to have the team horses with me,
I arranged with Ward and Co. to take it
to Newcastle for 2 pounds. Packed up and
left Yarraging with ten pack and six
riding horses, and steering North 320
degrees East magnetic for eight miles we
reached Waddowring springs in south
latitude 31 degrees and longitude 118
degrees East.
28th.
Started this morning with Mr. Monger,
Tommy Windich, and Dunbatch (a native of
this locality) in search of water in
order to shift the party. Travelling
about north for eleven miles we found a
native well, and by digging it out seven
feet we obtained sufficient water for
ourselves and horses. I therefore sent
Mr. Monger back with instructions to
bring the party to this spot, called
Cartubing. I then proceeded in a
northerly direction, and at two miles
passed water in granite rocks at a spot
called Inkanyinning. Shortly afterwards
we passed another native well, called
Yammaling, from which we steered towards
a spot called Beebynyinning; but, night
setting in, our guide lost his way, and
we were obliged to camp for the night in
a thicket without water and very little
feed.
29th.
This morning Dunbatch brought us to
Beebynyinning, where we obtained a
little water by digging. After digging a
well we returned to Cartubing, where we
met the party and bivouacked on a patch
of green feed.
30th.
Shifted the party from Cartubing to
Beebynyinning, watering our horses on
the way at Inkanyinning and Yammaling,
which was fortunate, as there was very
little water at Beebynyinning.
May
1st.
Steering about North-East for eight
miles over grassy country, we reached
and encamped at Danjinning, a small
grassy spot, with native well, by
deepening which about ten feet we
obtained a plentiful supply of water.
Mr. Austin visited Danjinning in 1854,
and we could see the tracks of his
horses distinctly. Barometer 29. Every
appearance of rain, which we are in much
want of.
2nd
(Sunday).
Rested at Danjinning, which I found to
be in south latitude 30 degrees 34
minutes by meridian altitude of the sun.
Read Divine Service. Jemmy shot six
gnows and a wurrong to-day.
3rd.
Steering in a northerly direction for
sixteen miles, we reached Yalburnunging,
a small grassy spot, with water in a
native well, which we deepened four
feet, and procured a plentiful supply.
For the first nine miles our route lay
over scrubby sand-plains, after which we
came into dense thickets and stunted
gums.
4th.
Steering towards Mount Churchman, or
Geelabbing, for about fifteen miles, we
reached a grassy spot called
Billeburring, and found water in a
native well, probably permanent. At
eight miles we passed a water-hole in
some granite rocks, called
Gnaragnunging. Dense acacia and cypress
thickets most of the way.
5th.
Steering in a northerly direction for
about twelve miles, we reached Mount
Churchman, or Geelabbing, an immense
bare granite hill, and camped, with
plenty of feed and water. At five miles
passed a spring called Coolee. Country
very dense and scrubby; no feed in any
of the thickets. From the summit of
Mount Churchman, Ningham of Mr. Monger,
or Mount Singleton of Mr. A.C. Gregory,
bore North 312 degrees 30 minutes East
magnetic. This evening a party of nine
natives (friends of our native Jemmy)
joined us, who state that a long time
ago a party of white men and horses died
at a place called Bouincabbajibimar,
also that a gun and a number of other
articles are there, and volunteer to
accompany us to the spot.
6th.
Left Mount Churchman in company with the
nine natives, and travelled about
North-North-West for ten miles to a
small water-hole called Woodgine, thence
in a northerly direction to a branch of
Lake Moore, which we crossed without
difficulty, and, following along its
north shore for three miles, we
bivouacked at a spring close to the lake
called Cundierring, with splendid feed
around the granite rocks.
7th.
Steering in a northerly direction for
eleven miles, through dense thickets of
acacia and cypress, we reached some
granite rocks with water on them, called
Curroning, and bivouacked. Have fears
that the information received from the
natives relates to nine of Mr. Austin's
horses that died from poison at Poison
Rock. They now state they are only
horses' bones, and not men's, as first
stated.
8th.
Travelling in the direction of North 30
degrees East for about ten miles, we
reached some granite rocks, with a
water-hole in them, called Coorbedar.
Passed over very rough, low, quartz
hills, covered with acacia thickets,
etc. At four miles passed a water-hole
called Yeergolling; at seven miles a
small one called Gnurra; and another at
eight miles called Munnarra.
9th
(Sunday).
Rested our horses at Coorbedar. Found
camp to be in south latitude 29 degrees
24 minutes 43 seconds by meridian
altitudes of the sun and Regulus, and in
longitude 118 degrees 6 minutes East.
From a quartz hill half a mile
South-West from Coorbedar, Mount
Singleton bore North 268 degrees 15
minutes East. The supply of water from
the rock having been used, I went, in
company with Mr. Hamersley, to a spot
one mile and a half South-South-West
from Coorbedar, called Dowgooroo, where
we dug a well and procured a little
water, to which I intend shifting
to-morrow, as I propose staying in this
vicinity for two days, so as to give me
time to visit Warne, the large river
spoken of by Jemmy.
10th.
Started this morning in company with
Tommy Windich and a native boy (one of
the nine who joined us at Mount
Churchman) to examine the locality
called Warne. Steering North 42 degrees
East magnetic for about seven miles, we
came to a grassy flat about half a mile
wide, with a stream-bed trending south
running through it. The natives state it
to be dry in summer, but at present
there is abundance of water, and in wet
seasons the flat must be almost all
under water. After following the flat
about seven miles we returned towards
camp, about five miles, and bivouacked.
11th.
Returned this morning to Dowgooroo and
found all well. Rain, which we were much
in want of, fell lightly most of the
day. Barometer 28.50; thermometer 61
degrees.
12th.
Steered this morning about North 38
degrees East magnetic for eight miles,
and camped by a shallow lake of fresh
water--the bivouac of the 10th. Here we
met a party of twenty-five natives
(friends of my native Jemmy and the nine
who joined us at Mount Churchman) who
had a grand corroboree in honour of the
expedition. They stated that at
Bouincabbajilimar there were the remains
of a number of horses, but no men's
bones or guns, and pointed in the
direction of Poison Rock, where Mr.
Austin lost nine horses. Being now
satisfied that the natives were alluding
to the remains of Mr. Austin's horses, I
resolved to steer to the eastward,
towards a spot called by the native,
Jemmy, Noondie, where he states he heard
the remains of white men were.
13th.
Bidding farewell to all the natives, we
steered in a south-easterly direction
for fifteen miles, and camped in a rough
hollow called Durkying; cypress and
acacia thickets the whole way.
14th.
One of our horses having strayed, we did
not start till 10.40 a.m., when we
steered in about a South-East direction
for eight miles, and camped on an
elevated grassy spot, called Mingan,
with water in the granite rocks,
probably permanent. The thickets were a
little less dense than usual, but
without any grass, except at the spots
mentioned. By meridian altitudes of Mars
and Regulus, we were in south latitude
29 degrees 30 minutes 30 seconds, and in
longitude about 118 degrees 30 minutes
east.
15th.
Steering North-East for four miles, and
North-North-East for seven miles, over
sandy soil, with thickets of acacia and
cypress, we bivouacked on an elevated
grassy spot, called Earroo, with water
in granite rocks.
16th
(Sunday).
Rested at Earroo; horses enjoying good
feed. By meridian altitudes of Regulus
and Mars, camp at Earroo was in south
latitude 29 degrees 23 minutes 3
seconds, and in longitude 118 degrees 35
minutes East; weather very cloudy;
barometer 29.
17th.
Started 7.50 a.m., and steered North 60
degrees East for about five miles;
thence about North 50 degrees East for
eight miles; thence North 85 degrees
East for five miles, to a small grassy
spot called Croobenyer, with water in
granite rocks. Sandy soil, thickets of
cypress, acacia, etc., most of the way.
Found camp to be in south latitude 29
degrees 12 minutes 43 seconds by
meridian altitudes of Regulus and
Aquilae (Altair); barometer 28.70.
18th.
Steering North 70 degrees East for two
miles and a half, we saw a low hill
called Yeeramudder, bearing North 62
degrees 30 minutes East magnetic,
distant about seventeen miles, for which
we steered, and camped to the north of
it, on a fine patch of grass with a
little rain-water on some granite rocks.
At eleven miles crossed a branch of a
dry salt lake, which appears to run far
to the eastward.
19th.
Steering about North 85 degrees East
magnetic for fourteen miles, attempted
to cross the lake we had been leaving a
little to the southward, making for a
spot supposed by us to be the opposite
shore, but on arriving at which was
found to be an island. As we had great
difficulty in reaching it, having to
carry all the loads the last 200 yards,
our horses saving themselves with
difficulty, and, being late, I resolved
to leave the loads and take the horses
to another island, where there was a
little feed, on reaching which we
bivouacked without water, all being very
tired.
20th.
On examining this immense lake I found
that it was impossible to get the horses
and loads across it; I was therefore
compelled to retrace my steps to where
we first entered it, which the horses
did with great difficulty without their
loads. I was very fortunate in finding
water and feed about three miles
North-North-West, to which we took the
horses and bivouacked, leaving on the
island all the loads, which we shall
have to carry at least half way, three
quarters of a mile, the route being too
boggy for the horses.
HEAVY WORK IN THE BOG.
21st.
Went over to the lake in company with
Messrs. Monger, Hamersley, and Tommy
Windich, with four horses. Succeeded in
getting all the loads to the mainland,
carrying them about three quarters of a
mile up to our knees in mud, from which
point the lake became a little firmer,
and the horses carried the loads out. I
cannot speak too highly of the manner in
which my companions assisted me on this
trying occasion. Having been obliged to
work barefooted in the mud, the soles of
Mr. Hamersley's feet were in a very bad
state, and he was hardly able to walk
for a fortnight.
Seeing a native fire several miles to
the southward, I intend sending Tommy
Windich and Jemmy in search of the tribe
to-morrow, in order that I may question
them respecting the reported death of
white men to the eastward.
The
Horses Bogged at Lake Barlee.
22nd.
Went over to the lake with all the
horses, and brought the loads to the
camp. Started Tommy and Jemmy in search
of the natives. After returning to camp,
overhauled all the pack bags, and dried
and re-packed them, ready for a fresh
start on Monday morning. Also washed the
mud off the horses, who appear to be
doing well, and fast recovering from the
effects of the bogging. Tommy and Jemmy
returned this evening, having seen some
natives after dark, but were unable to
get near them.
23rd
(Sunday).
Went with Tommy Windich and Jemmy on
foot to follow the tracks of the natives
seen yesterday. Seeing no chance of
overtaking them, as they appeared to be
making off at a great rate, and were
twelve hours in advance of us, we
returned, after following the tracks for
five miles across the lake. The camp was
reached at 2 p.m., after we had walked
about fifteen miles. This spot, which I
named Retreat Rock, I found to be in
south latitude 29 degrees 3 minutes 51
seconds by meridian altitudes of Regulus
and Mars, and in about longitude 119
degrees 16 minutes east.
24th.
Some of the horses having strayed, we
were not able to start till 10.40 a.m.,
when we steered in about East-North-East
direction for sixteen miles, and camped
on a piece of rising ground, with very
little water. From this bivouac, a very
remarkable peaked hill, called Woolling,
which I named Mount Elain, bore North
162 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic,
distant about twenty miles; and two
conspicuous hills, close together,
called Yeadie and Bulgar, bore North 105
degrees East magnetic. Dense thickets,
acacia, cypress, etc., sandy soil with
spinifex, most of the way.
DISCOVERY OF LAKE BARLEE.
25th.
Steering for Yeadie and Bulgar for five
miles, and came to some granite rocks
with water, where we gave drink to our
thirsty horses. Leaving the party to
follow, I went with Jemmy in advance to
look for water, which we found in a
rough stream-bed, and brought the party
to it. This afternoon went with Jemmy to
the summit of Yeadie, and took a round
of angles. The local attraction was so
great on this hill that the prismatic
compass was useless; luckily I had my
pocket sextant with me, by which I
obtained the included angles. From the
summit of Yeadie the view was very
extensive. The great lake that we had
already followed for forty miles ran as
far as the eye could reach to the east
and south, studded with numerous
islands; low ranges of hills in every
direction. This immense lake I named
Lake Barlee, after the Colonial
Secretary of Western Australia. By
meridian altitudes of Mars and Regulus,
camp was in south latitude, 28 degrees
58 minutes 50 seconds, and in longitude
about 119 degrees 39 minutes East,
Yeadie bearing North 172 degrees East
magnetic, distant about two miles.
26th.
Moving in about a northerly direction
for nine miles, we turned to the
eastward, rounded a branch of Lake
Barlee, towards some loose granite
rocks, where we encamped, but could not
find water. Sent Jemmy over to another
rock one mile southward, where he found
a fine permanent water-hole, to which we
took the horses after dark. Distance
travelled to-day about eighteen miles.
Tommy shot a fine emu, which was a great
treat to us all.
27th.
Shifted the party over to the water
found last night, one mile distant, and
camped. Found camp to be in south
latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes, and in
longitude about 119 degrees 50 minutes
east. Marked a small tree with the
letter F. close to the waterhole.
28th.
Some of the horses having strayed, we
did not start till 9.30 a.m., when I
went in advance of the party, in company
with Jemmy, to look for water. After
following Lake Barlee for nine miles, it
turned to the southward. Then scouring
the country in every direction for water
without success, we reached the tracks
of the party (who had passed on), and,
following them over plains of spinifex
and stunted gums, found them encamped
with plenty of water, which they had
luckily discovered at sundown. Distance
travelled eighteen miles about true
east. By meridian altitude of Bootes
(Arcturus), this bivouac is in south
latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes 34
seconds, and longitude about 120 degrees
9 minutes east.
DISAPPOINTED EXPEDITIONS.
29th.
Started in company with Tommy and Jemmy
to explore the country eastward, leaving
the party to take off the horses' shoes
for their relief. Travelling in an
easterly direction for eight miles over
sandy soil and spinifex, we reached the
summit of a high hill, supposed by Jemmy
to be Noondie, which I named Mount
Alexander, from which we saw another
range about eleven miles distant,
bearing North 82 degrees 15 minutes East
magnetic, to which we proceeded, and
found water in some granite rocks. None
of these hills, however, agreed with the
description given by Jemmy; and the
expectations were at an end that he
would succeed in showing us the spot
where the remains of white men were.
Returning to camp, seven miles,
bivouacked on a grassy flat, without
water or food.
30th. (Sunday).
Started at dawn, with the saddles and
rugs on our backs, in search of the
horses, and, after travelling a mile and
a half on their tracks, found them at a
small water-hole passed by us yesterday.
Saddled up and reached camp at eleven
o'clock, and found all well. Yesterday
morning the dogs caught an emu, off
which we made a first-rate breakfast,
not having had anything to eat since the
previous morning. Barometer 28.44.
A
DIFFICULTY WITH THE NATIVES.
31st.
Started this morning in company with Mr.
Monger and Jemmy in search of natives,
leaving Mr. Hamersley in charge, with
instructions to proceed eastward about
twenty-two miles, to where I found water
on the 29th. After starting the party we
steered in a South-South-East direction
towards a high range of hills, which I
named Mount Bivou, about twelve miles
distant. To the westward of the range we
found a fine water-hole in some granite
rocks, where we rested an hour to allow
the horses to feed. Continuing in about
the same direction for five miles, we
ascended a rough range to have a view of
the country. We descried a large fire to
the westward seven miles, towards which
we proceeded, in the hope of finding
natives. When we were within half a mile
we could hear hallooing and shouting;
and it was very evident there was a
great muster (certainly not less than
100) of natives, corrobberying, making a
dreadful noise, the dogs joining in
chorus. Having stripped Jemmy, I told
him to go and speak to them, which he
started to do in very good spirits. He
soon beckoned us to follow, and asked us
to keep close behind him, as the natives
were what he called like "sheep flock."
He appeared very nervous, trembling from
head to foot. After reassuring him, we
tied up our horses, and advanced through
the thicket towards them. When getting
in sight of them, Jemmy commenced
cooeying, and was answered by the
natives; after which he advanced and
showed himself. As soon as they saw him,
the bloodthirsty villains rushed at him,
and threw three dowaks, which he luckily
dodged; when fortunately one of the
natives recognized him (having seen
Jemmy at Mount Elain when a little boy),
and called to the others not to harm
him. Seeing Jemmy running towards the
horses, Mr. Monger and I thought it was
time to retire, as we saw the mistake we
had made in leaving the horses. The
thickets being dense, we had difficulty
in finding the horses quickly. On
reaching them Mr. Monger found he had
dropped his revolver. Had not Jemmy been
recognized, I feel sure we should have
had bloodshed, and might probably have
lost our lives. Mounting the horses, we
advanced towards the natives, and had a
short talk with one of them who came to
speak to Jemmy. There was a guard of
eight natives, with spears stripped, and
dowaks in readiness, should we prove
hostile. Although I assured them we were
friends, and asked them to put down
their spears, they took no notice of
what was said. One native told us not to
sleep here, but to go away and not
return, or the natives would kill and
eat us, after which he turned away as if
he did not wish to have any more words
with us. It being now dark, we took his
advice, and retreated towards where we
had dinner, five miles off. Camped in a
thicket without water, and tied up our
horses, keeping watch all night.
June
1st.
At daybreak saddled up our tired and
hungry horses, and proceeded to where we
had dinner yesterday. After giving our
horses two hours' grazing and having had
breakfast, started back towards the
natives' camp, as I wished to question
them respecting the reported death of
white men in this neighbourhood. When we
approached the natives' bivouac, we saw
where they had been following up our
tracks in every direction, and Jemmy
found the place where they had picked up
Mr. Monger's revolver. While Jemmy was
away looking for the revolver, Mr.
Monger saw two natives following up our
trail, and within fifty yards of us. We
both wheeled round and had our guns in
readiness, but soon perceived they were
the same as were friendly last night,
and I called Jemmy to speak to them. At
my request they went and brought us Mr.
Monger's revolver, which they stated
they had been warming near the fire!
Fortunately for them, it did not go off.
On being questioned by Jemmy, they
stated that the place Noondie (where
Jemmy stated he heard the remains of the
white men were) was two days' journey
North-West from this spot; that there
were the remains of horses, but not of
men, and they volunteered to show us the
spot. Being now 1 p.m., and having to
meet the party to-night at a place about
twenty-three miles distant, we started
at once, leaving the natives, who did
not wish to move to-day, but who
apparently sincerely promised to come to
our camp to-morrow. Reached camp at the
spot arranged an hour after dark, and
found all well.
BIVOUACKING.
2nd.
Rested our horses at the place, which I
called the Two-spring Bivouac, there
being two small springs here. Re-stuffed
with grass all the pack-saddles, as some
of the horses were getting sore backs.
By meridian altitude of sun found the
camp to be in south latitude 28 degrees
51 minutes 45 seconds, and in longitude
about 120 degrees 30 minutes east. I was
very much annoyed at the natives not
putting in appearance as promised.
3rd.
No sign of the natives this morning. I
decided to steer in the direction
pointed out by them, and travelling
about North 306 degrees East magnetic
for fifteen miles, we found water in
some granite rocks, with very good feed
around, cypress and acacia thickets,
light red loamy soil, destitute of
grass.
4th.
Steering in about West-North-West
direction for sixteen miles, the first
six of which were studded with granite
rocks, good feed around them, after
which through poor sandy country,
covered with spinifex. We bivouacked in
a thicket without water or feed, and
tied up our horses. Saw a natives' fire,
but was unable to get near it. Barometer
28.52; fine.
5th.
After travelling in a northerly
direction for seven miles without
finding water, and without seeing any
hill answering the description given by
Jemmy, I struck about east for sixteen
miles, and camped at a fine spring near
some granite rocks, with splendid feed
around them. This is the first good
spring since leaving the settled
districts. At 8 p.m., barometer 28.44;
thermometer 72 degrees.
6th
(Sunday).
Rested at camp, which I called Depot
Spring, and found to be in south
latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes 34
seconds by meridian altitude of sun.
Barometer at 8 a.m. 28.38; thermometer
57 degrees; at 5 p.m., barometer 28.30;
thermometer 77 degrees.
7th.
Started this morning, in company with
Mr. Hamersley and Jemmy, to explore the
country to the northward, where we had
seen a peaked hill. Went in that
direction about thirty miles, the first
twenty of which were studded with
granite rocks, with fine feed around
them. At twenty-seven miles crossed a
salt marsh, about one mile wide, and,
continuing three miles farther, reached
the peaked hill, which was composed of
granite, capped with immense blocks,
giving it a very remarkable appearance.
Bivouacked on North-West side of hill,
at a small water-hole.
8th.
This morning, after saddling up, we
ascended the conical hill (which I named
Mount Holmes) and took a round of angles
from it, after which we struck North 81
degrees East magnetic to a granite range
about eight miles distant, where we
found two fine water-holes, and rested
an hour. Thence in about a
South-South-East direction for twelve
miles, we bivouacked without water on a
small patch of feed. The day was very
fine, and the rainy appearance cleared
off, much to our grief.
9th.
At daybreak, no sound of horses' bells,
and anticipating they had made off in
search of water, we put our saddles,
guns, and rugs on our backs, and started
on their tracks. After following the
tracks for nine miles we came to a
water-hole and had breakfast; afterwards
we succeeded in overtaking the horses in
a grassy flat, about thirteen miles
South-South-East from our last night's
bivouac. The last few miles our
troublesome load became very awkward and
heavy. One of the horses had broken his
hobbles. Continuing in about the same
course for six miles, we struck about
West-South-West for ten miles, and
reached camp, where we found all well,
at 6 p.m. Barometer 28.64; cloudy.
AN
OLD NATIVE.
10th.
Started again this morning in company
with Mr. Monger and Jemmy, to explore
the country to the eastward, leaving Mr.
Hamersley to shift the party to our
bivouac of the 2nd instant, about
twenty-four miles South-East from here.
After travelling East-North-East for six
miles, we came upon a very old native at
a fire in the thicket. Jemmy could not
understand what he said, but he thought
that he meant that there were a number
of armed natives about. He was very
frightened, howled the whole time we
stayed, and was apparently in his
dotage, hardly able to walk. Continuing
our journey, we camped at a small
water-hole in some granite rocks, with
good feed around them, about sixteen
miles East-North-East from Depot Spring.
11th.
Started at sunrise, and steered about
East-North-East over lightly-grassed
country; and on our way came upon a
middle-aged native with two small
children. We were within twenty yards of
him before he saw us. He appeared very
frightened, and trembled from head to
foot. Jemmy could understand this native
a little, and ascertained from him that
he had never seen or heard anything
about white men or horses being killed
or having died in this vicinity. Did not
know any place named Noondie; but
pointed to water a little way eastward.
Jemmy then asked him all manner of
questions, but to no purpose, as he
stated he knew nothing about the
business. Jemmy asked him if he had ever
heard of any horses being eaten; he
answered No, but that the natives had
just eaten his brother! I have no doubt
parents have great difficulty in saving
their children from these inhuman
wretches. Then the old man tried to cry,
and ended by saying he had two women at
his hut, a little westward. After
travelling ten miles from our last
night's bivouac, and not finding water,
we struck North 204 degrees East
magnetic for about twenty miles, through
scrubby thickets, without feed, and
arrived at the bivouac of the 2nd, where
the party will meet us to-morrow.
Reached the water at the Two Springs
half an hour after dark.
12th.
Explored the country around camp in
search of a better place for feed, but
could not find water. Mr. Hamersley and
party joined us at 4 p.m., all well.
Tommy shot a red kangaroo, which was a
great treat, after living so long on
salt pork. Barometer 28.60; fine; cold
wind from the east all day.
13th
(Sunday).
Rested at camp. Intend taking a trip to
the southward to-morrow. Barometer
28.76.
14th.
Started this morning, in company with
Morgan and Jemmy, to examine the country
to the southward. Travelled in a
south-westerly direction for twenty-five
miles, and camped at the spot where we
had the encounter with the natives on
May 31. We found they had left, and
there was no water on the rocks. Luckily
our horses had water six miles back.
MOUNT IDA.
15th.
Saddled up at daybreak, and steered
about South-East towards a high range of
hills about ten miles distant. I named
it Mount Ida, and from the summit I took
a round of angles with my pocket
sextant. On all the hills in this
neighbourhood the local attraction is so
great that the prismatic compass is
useless. Found a fine spring of water on
south side of Mount Ida, in an almost
inaccessible spot. After giving the
horses two hours' rest we continued our
journey North 154 degrees East magnetic
for eight miles to a granite range,
where, after a diligent search, I found
two water-holes, and bivouacked, with
good feed around the rocks.
16th.
Saddled up at sunrise, and steered to
some trap ranges, North 124 degrees
East, about seven miles distant, from
which I could see an immense lake
running as far as the eye could reach to
the eastward, and westerly and
northerly, most probably joining Lake
Barlee. Not being able to proceed
farther southward, on account of the
lake, I steered in a northerly direction
for twenty miles, but, discovering
neither feed nor water, bivouacked in a
thicket, and tied up our horses.
17th.
At dawn, found that my horse Sugar,
after breaking his bridle, had made off
towards our bivouac of the 15th. Placing
my saddle on Jemmy's horse, we followed
on the track for six miles, when we came
to a few granite rocks, with a little
water on them, from rain that had fallen
during the night. At this place Morgan
was left with the horses and our guns,
while Jemmy and I followed on Sugar's
tracks, taking only a revolver with us.
After travelling on the tracks for two
miles we overtook him, and with a little
trouble managed to catch him. On
reaching the spot where we had left
Morgan, we found him with the three
double-barrelled guns on full cock,
together with his revolver, in
readiness. On being asked what was the
matter, he stated "Nothing," but he was
ready to give the natives what he called
"a warm attachment." After having
breakfast we steered North-North-West
for about twenty miles, and reached camp
at 5 p.m., and found all well. Rained a
little during the day.
EXPLORING EASTWARD.
18th.
Having thus made an exhaustive search in
the neighbourhood where Jemmy expected
to find the remains of the white men, by
travelling over nearly the whole of the
country between latitude 28 degrees and
29 degrees 30 minutes south, and
longitude 120 and 121 degrees east, I
determined to make the most of the
little time at my disposal, and carry
out the instruction that I was to
attempt to proceed as far eastward as
possible. Accordingly, after collecting
the horses, steered about
East-North-East for nine miles, to a low
quartz range, over tolerably grassy
country, not very dense. From this range
I saw some bare granite rocks bearing
about North 120 degrees East magnetic.
For these we steered, and luckily, after
travelling six miles over a plain, which
in severe winters must be nearly all
under water, found a fine pool in a
clay-pan, and bivouacked. There was a
little rain during the night.
19th.
The horses having strayed back on our
tracks, we did not start till 12
o'clock, when the journey was continued
towards the granite range seen
yesterday, about ten miles distant. We
camped on west side of North, with
plenty of water from the recent rain on
the granite rocks, but with very little
feed. At five miles crossed a dry
stream-bed, eighteen yards wide, sandy
bottom; thickets most of the way, but
not very dense.
20th
(Sunday).
Rested at camp. Jemmy shot four rock
kangaroos to-day. Took a round of angles
from a bare granite hill, North 50
degrees East magnetic, about one mile
from camp, which I found to be in south
latitude 28 degrees 57 minutes by
meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus)
and a Pegasi (Markab); and in longitude
about 120 degrees 55 minutes East. Saw a
high hill bearing North 81 degrees 30
minutes East magnetic, about twenty-five
miles distant, which I named Mount
Lenora; and another bearing North 67
degrees East magnetic, about twenty-five
miles distant, which I named Mount
George. Intend proceeding to Mount
Lenora to-morrow. Marked a small tree
(ordnance-tree of Mr. Austin) with the
letter F at our bivouac.
21st.
Steering towards Mount Lenora over some
tolerably grassy country, we reached it
at sundown, and, not finding any water,
camped without it, with very good feed.
In south latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes
by meridian altitudes of Lyrae (Vega)
and Aquilae (Altair), and in longitude
about 121 degrees 20 minutes East.
22nd.
After making every search in the
vicinity of the bivouac for water, and
the country ahead appearing very
unpromising, I decided to return ten
miles on our tracks, where we found a
fine pool of water in a brook, and
camped. Tomorrow I intend taking a
flying trip in search of water.
A
NATIVE UP A TREE.
23rd.
Started this morning, in company with
Tommy Windich, to explore the country to
the eastward for water, etc. After
travelling three miles towards Mount
Lenora, saw a natives' fire bearing
North-East about three miles, to which
we proceeded, and surprised a
middle-aged native. Upon seeing us he
ran off shouting, and decamped with a
number of his companions, who were at a
little distance. The horse I was
riding--Turpin, an old police-horse from
Northam--evidently well understood
running down a native, and between us we
soon overtook our black friend and
brought him to bay. We could not make
him understand anything we said; but,
after looking at us a moment, and seeing
no chance of escape, he dropped his two
dowaks and wooden dish, and climbed up a
small tree about twelve feet high. After
securing the dowaks, I tried every means
to tempt him to come down; fired my
revolver twice, and showed him the
effect it had on the tree. The report
had the effect also of frightening all
the natives that were about, who no
doubt made off at a great rate. I began
to climb up after him, but he pelted me
with sticks, and was more like a wild
beast than a man. After discovering we
did not like to be hit, he became bolder
and threw more sticks at us, and one
hitting Tommy, he was nearly shooting
him, when I called on him to desist. I
then offered him a piece of damper,
showing him it was good by eating some
myself and giving some to Tommy. He
would not look at it, and when I threw
it close to him he dashed it away as if
it was poison. The only way of getting
him down from the tree was force, and,
after considering a moment, I decided to
leave him where he was. We accordingly
laid down his dowaks and dish, and bade
him farewell in as kindly a manner as
possible. Continuing our course, passing
Mount Lenora, we steered North 81
degrees 15 minutes East magnetic to a
table hill, which I ascended and took a
round of angles. This hill I named Mount
Malcolm, after my friend and companion,
Mr. M. Hamersley. Saw a remarkable peak
bearing North 65 degrees East magnetic,
distant about twenty miles, towards
which we proceeded, and at six miles
came upon a small gully, in which we
found a little water, and bivouacked.
24th.
Started early this morning, and steered
East-North-East for six miles to some
low stony ranges, lightly grassed;
thence North 61 degrees 30 minutes East
magnetic to the remarkable peak, which I
named Mount Flora, distant about nine
miles fr |
